YI Craft- Tradition through Jewellery Hard-Feelings lenses

Yiran workshops and contact can be find here : Yi Craft London and on social media

This article has been created with my dear friend Lin.

Yiran traditional Hat that her grand-mother gifted to her- You can see a carved Jade on it surrounded by other beautiful gems.

Redefining Cultural Narratives through Jewellery:

Exploring the interplay between jewellery and cultural appreciation with Yiran from Yi Craft. This article emerges from a collaboration with Lin, my cool and inspiring friend, who's delved deep into the world of cultural appreciation through his research.

A few months ago, Lin invited me to an indigo workshop at Yi Craft with Yiran as part of his project to explore cultural appreciation and uncover new narratives in London's vibrant creative scene. Naturally, I couldn't resist.

Stepping into Yiran's studio was like entering another world. The space was alive with handmade pieces, each tied to her heritage. Yiran, a member of the Bai minority group in China, explained the significance behind her work.

Let's go further, through Lin- "China is a country with 56 ethnic minorities, Lin grew up in Yunnan Province, China, and my province has the most ethnic minorities in China (including the Han ethnic group, there are a total of 26 ethnic minorities, of which 15 are unique to Yunnan. The full name of Dali is Dali Bai Autonomous Region, the place with the largest population of the Bai ethnic minority." (Lin)

Yiran demonstrated the indigo-dyeing process, tying it to her family, her province, and her desire to balance tradition with modernity. What struck me most was her focus on connection-encouraging us to share where we're from and let that moment of exchange leave a lasting impression. Admittedly, I found it deeply moving.

Indigo and Jewellery: Crafting Stories Beyond Gemstones

Naturally, our conversation drifted to jewellery. As someone obsessed with everything jewellery, I was fascinated by her indigo-dyed pieces. Who would've thought that the dye used for denim could also create such unique, meaningful jewellery?

While working on Jewellery Hard-Feelings, Yi's work stayed on my mind. Jewellery doesn't have to be only about sparkling gemstones (though I'll admit, I'm a sucker for a shiny rock). It can also carry deep personal and cultural significance, as Yi's does.

When I returned to her studio, I discovered her collection of cultural jewellery and heard the stories behind them. One standout piece was the San Xu, a traditional safety lock brooch. Yi explained that these brooches, gifted by families to daughters, evolve over time—the chains grow longer as the wearer marries or has children.

Lin wanted to delve more deeply into cultural heritage:" Intangible cultural heritage refers to some forms of artistic expression that we cannot see or touch but are very important. (It includes traditional knowledge, customs, language, songs, dances, dramas, festivals, handicrafts, etc.) People learn These cultural practices and expressions from their ancestors and pass them on to the next generation. It is not difficult for us to see the shadow of inheritance behind Yiran's story. Protecting these intangible cultural heritages is to protect these intangible treasures from being forgotten by time and to ensure they can continue to be inherited and developed." (Lin)

The San Xu perfectly exemplifies how jewellery can provoke larger discussions. It's a cherished tradition and a symbol that has sparked debates about women's societal roles. Yi noted how modern women are reclaiming its meaning, sometimes choosing longer chains as a sign of independence and freedom.

Beyond its symbolism, the San Xu is highly functional and holds tools like scissors or needles. Yi's photographs of women from her province wearing these brooches in traditional attire were magical—an emotional reminder of how jewellery serves as a living cultural memory.

Safety Lock- San Xu, Yiran one offered by her mother, silver and enamel.

Jewellery as Cultural Memory:

On my second visit, another piece caught my eye: a stunning necklace of black gemstones, silver, and a hidden jade bead. Yi explained that it came from the Miao minority and was traditionally worn during sadness. She shared images of Miao women in vibrant traditional attire, dancing together, adorned with these necklaces. She also showed me videos of artisans crafting the intricate silver beads—a mesmerising process.

When I asked Yi about her inspirations, she said that her family and province stood out as central themes. For her, preserving and showcasing minority traditions is a powerful form of storytelling.

Silver and black beads and hidden jade.

Closer look to this beauty.

Cultural Appreciation vs. Appropriation:

Lin wanted to share his thoughts about cultural appropriation from what he learned from his research conducted during his master's at CSM- "The harm caused by cultural appropriation should not be underestimated. It will eventually be trashed by people and become a soul without a body. When people of other ethnic groups refer to local cultural knowledge, they must be respectful. This is no joke. You can borrow it, but you must indicate its origin and never redefine it. When people of other ethnic groups touch upon local ethnic and cultural knowledge, they need to be respectful, and this is no joke. You can borrow it but must indicate where it came from and never redefine it. Just like yoga in India, yoga has become a sport that only the upper class can do in the West, which has turned it into a quick workout or simplified into Instagram-friendly content. Yoga was supposed to be promoted as an ancient traditional culture from South Asia, but now it has been greatly commercialised in the West, losing the essence of ancient Indian customs. Abuse or disrespect of culture will hurt the birthplace of the alienated and commercialised culture." (Lin)

We also discussed whether London-based designers draw inspiration from her province's jewellery. Yi mentioned that while some Asian designers are inspired by these traditions, there's a fine line between appreciation and appropriation in Europe. Understanding and honouring the source is essential when engaging with cultural heritage.

Safety lock for young females.

The longer safety lock, originally for women’s that are married and have children. Until, now women’s have decided to buy the longer version of the safety lock and go beyond the tradition.

Steering the Conversation Forward:

Born and raised in Paris with Italian and Syrian roots, I've always been inspired by cultural diversity and memory. Meeting Yi made me even more passionate about preserving and sharing these narratives. Her work reframes heritage as something living and dynamic, inviting us to see jewellery as more than adornment.

If you're curious about her work, don't be shy—get in touch with Yi! And a big shoutout to her photography skills (Jewellery Hard-Feelings could use a tip or two).

Three words sum up this experience: appreciation, love, and tradition. Let's start steering the conversation. Share your thoughts and stories, and let's explore the rawness of cultural narratives together.

San Xu as a tool for Women’s.